My second build is officially under my belt as my Seamaster is completed! I’ve finally got around to taking the pictures and completing my posts to wrap it up.
I guess one could argue that one last step to fully complete the process is still hanging out there, which is the maiden flight! Hopefully I will be able to do this during next years flying season!
Installing the rubber to deflect the water away from the opening into the fuselage where the wing is bolted to the fuselage was the last & final step. You can see it from the top and bottom view in the images above.
Below you can see a side view and a top view of the aircraft. This is what the final product looks like with the wing bolted to the fuselage.
Wow, hard to believe that I have wrapped up my second build! If you are interested in seeing the entire build from start to finish in chronological order you can here.
On July 15th I wrapped up my last session at Peters to (almost) complete my aircraft. On this day I installed the receiver, wrapped in a plastic bag to protect it from any splashed of water that might get inside the fuselage. After that I cut a piece of foam to pack on top of the receiver to keep the electronics in place during flight.
I also attached the receiver wire to the side of the fuselage, through a plastic tube to protect it and increase the reception quality as you want to ensure you do not loose contact between the transmitter and receiver during flight (as orientation, direction, etc. of the aircraft changes). This can be seen in the featured image at the top of the post.
I also installed the fuel lines. This involved trial ‘fitting’ the lines to get an idea of how long they needed to be and then giving them an initial cut. Then trial fitting again, if when attached the excess was to much giving the end of the line a trim. Want some excess to remain so that in the future as the line gets worn you can trim it back a little bit to snug up the fit and not always have to replace the entire line.
In the image below the red line is the return (exhaust) and the white line feeds fuel to the engine.
Lastly installed the wing and you can see, in the image below, how the wing fits snuggly into the craddle of the fuselage. You can also see the wire sticking out that is used to turn the aircraft on/off by pushing in or pulling out.
On July 8th did a test of the electronics system. This involved hooking up the receiver and connecting all the servors for the control surfaces into the receiver along with a battery into the auxilary input.
I had already bound my transmitter; however, this time around it appeared there was no bind, so ended up binding the transmitter to the receiver again for the ‘Seamaster’ model saved in my transmitter.
Going through all the controls (throttle, rudder, elevator & ailerons) I made sure they had full range and were moving in the intended direction with input from the transmitter. This was not always the case and required me to remove the linkage on the rudder servo to center the rudder to allow full range left and right. The other tweaks were on the transmitter reversing the servo where necessary… that is when applying left the control surface was going right and vise versa, which is not what you want, lol.
On June 17th, you can see where the silicone after drying was cleaned up around the wing ‘craddle’ in the fuselage in the featured image above.
In the image below you can see where the hatch, covered in yellow to match the top of color scheme of the aircraft, was screwed into place. This allows access to the nose where weights have been installed, if necessary.
I also installed the water rudder. This allows for better steering of the aircraft when taxing in the water. In the left image below you can see the ‘stopper’, screw with a piece of fuel line tubing covering, sticking out. This prevents the rudder, when in flight, from getting stuck in the up position or in a spot that would prevent the planes rudder from functioning properly. That way, once you get back in the water the water rudder will drop back down allowing you to steer while taxing again.
I cut the ‘water rudder’ out of a piece of metal after tracing a template using the table jigsaw and then using a metal filer to file off all the burs / rough edges providing a smoother finish. Want to make sure it can cut the covering, me, etc.
Wow, I’m now all caught up on my Seamaster Build posts! I’m not calling this build done yet, and has been a two year process as got started late on this one (Feb. 10, 2018) so perhaps 1.5 building seasons. 🙂
I will have to check into what all is left to do, beyond starting it up and seeing how everything moves along with the maiden voyage. Not sure where (or when) that is going to happen!
June 15th was about water-proofing the cradle in the fuselage for the wing. This involved using a cocking gun to apply silicone all along the top edge of the cradle in the fuselage (where the wing sits) and making sure to place lots up under the ‘water-deflector‘.
To prep for this job I wrapped some seran around the front center of the wing and taped it in place to prevent silicone from getting onto (and drying) to the covering of the wing. Teh wing is assembled on the fuselage during the drying process to make sure that the silicone forms properly to how the wing needs to fit and a tight seal is made.
Unfortunately during this process (we didn’t test the wing installment first as hasn’t been tested since installing the ‘water-deflector’) we realized the wing didn’t fit on the fuselage anymore and had to use the dremel tool to shorten the backside of the deflector, which will have to be covered again (since wood on the back edge is now exposed) , to get everything to fit correctly.
You can now really see the aircraft coming together in the image below:
Below you can see what it looks like from underneath. The seran taped into place and the wing sitting in the siliconed craddle.
June 8th I sanded the front of the previously installed ‘water deflector’ to make it more aerodynamic and not have such a flat leading edge, but rather conform more closely to curve of the piece it is attached to. I then covered the ‘water deflector’ in yellow to give it a cohesive look with the top of the aircraft and protect it (as everything exposed pretty much gets covered!)
After that I measured out and cut a slot into sponges for lead weights. I then placed the lead weights into the slots and sandwhiched them between the two sponges, wrapping elastic bands around to keep them firmly in place.
I then inserted the sponges into the nose of the aircraft through the former. You can see the yellow and pink sponges set into place in the image below… sorry this one is a bit blurry:
The other task for the day was cutting a piece of light balsa and sanding it to finish in a graded triangular shape and gluing the balsa to the switch plate (seen clamped in the feature image). This is to keep the wire controlling the switch, goes through the fuselage for access when the wing is on, at a better angle to get the required leverage.
June 3rd, I made a wooden plate that slides around the back of the pylon with a lip over the craddle for the wing. This is to deflect any water that splashes up over the front from getting inside the fuselage. I measured Peter’s version on his seamaster to get an idea of location and dimensions of the slot to be cut.
Once prepped I glued and clampped the piece in place, as seen in the featured image (above).
Next, I cut sponges to fit around the fuel tank to keep it snuggly in place as well as tubing for the fuel lines. Do not want the tank shifting while in flight. I then ensured the tank with the added padding and tubing connected fit appropriately.
After the trial fit I drilled a pilot hole into the firewall for one of the previously drilled holes in the fiber-glass enclosure. I then lightly screwed it in place an continued for the other holes in the fiber-glass as Peter manuvered and held the aircraft so I could get to the various pre-drilled holes in the fiber-glass and drill the pilot holes into the firewall.
Afterwords I screwed the fiber-glass enclosure onto the firewall.
We were having an issue with getting the tank to fit in the fiber-glass housing along with some foam for protection to prevent it from raddling around.
On May 11th I did a trial fit of the tank, with the foam stuffed in, now that the engine is mounted, painted, etc. to make sure things were coming together as expected.
I also started prepping the switch I sanded off the piece of plastic that protrudes over the actual switch as well as drilled a hole into the switch itself due to how I need to rig it up and then cut out a rectangular piece of wood that will fit into the fuselage where I need the switch to be. I then measured where the center of the switch needed to be and cut out a hole about the dimensions of the switch back, sanding to finish the fit. I then put the switch through, back plate on the back, and screwed the two pieces together to secure the switch in place.
May 8th I returned to sanding, in this case paint, as after painting the pylon I needed to do some sanding on the bottom portion in order for the pylon to fit back down into the slot on the fuselage. I sanded to the curve of the top of the fuselage to keep the better finish in visible areas.
You can see the plane coming together in the featured image at the top with the newly painted pylon fitted.
I also got the wing tip floats attached to the bottom of the wing. This invovled figuring out where the screws needed to go in order to match up to the previously installed balsa blocks in the wing to provide strentgh.
All together 3 screws were used. One to hold the front portion down, seen in the first pic below, and two to hold the back portion down.
April 28th, I painted the pylon and applied the base coat to the fiberglass cassing. I then went with yellow paint for the pylon to match the top color of the aircraft (wings and stab are yellow on top).
May 1st, I mixed up a batch of epoxy and attached the throttle servo assembly previously made to the pylon, using clamps to hold it in place while the glue set.
I then spray painted the fiberglass cassing it’s first coat of green paint. Prior to painting a piece of frog tape was wrapped around (darker green in the image below) so that after an appropriate amount of coats have been applied and the paint has dried the tape can be removed providing a white stripe to accentuate the piece.
The green was spray painted on so the encasing was placed over a ‘stick’ and clamped in a vise which was placed inside a cardboard box (with the one side cut out) to contain the paint. Rotating using the vise, periodically, to achieve an even finish… roughly 🙂