It’s been a fun time trying to get everything updated and to where I want it to be on my website. Just recently I did a post about some housekeeping I’ve been doing on my website along with outstanding items. One of the things that has come up was updating to the latest version of WP (4.7.3) as I was currently on 4.7.2. I tried to do it as soon as it was available within WordPress itself, but this kept failing and so I awaited until it was available through the dashboard on my GoDaddy Windows (Plesk) hosting.
I thought fantastic, I’ll click the button and wala! But no, for another domain it did work right off the hop, but for dwcryan.com no such luck. I was getting the following error:
Error: Update failed: Non-zero exit status returned by script. Output stream: ‘ (Error code 1)’. Error stream: ‘ (Error code 1)’.
So the Googling started and I came across a Plesk support article on the error I was experiencing. The advice was to either comment out the error_log line or to set it equal to syslog. In my hosting I do not have access to the PHP.ini file which meant I could not do this; however, for each domain in my hosting there is a .user.ini file within the corresponding directory root. By placing the following line at the bottom of that file (on a new line) I was able to successfully update my WordPress installation through the Plesk 12.0 Applications Dashboard:
I think I have finally managed to get some serious website maintenance and cleanup done so I can move forward with confidence. The tasks that I have performed over the last little while includes:
Full backup of my domain
Backup of my MySQL database for dwcryan.com
Deleting 2 Huge IT Portfolio Plugin tables from the database (the plugin itself I deleted a ways back)
Deleting 2 Unused Plugins (Aeolus Creative Portfolio and Hello Dolly)
Upgrading WordPress version (always trying to keep up to date for security reasons)
TablePress plugin update failed putting my site into maintenance mode, had to rename folder and install fresh (thankfully tables embedded into posts so they remained! 🙂 )
Using WP-Sweep to clean up unused, orphaned and duplicated data as well as to optimize my database tables (especially for removing old revisions of posts to try and speed things up)
I’ve used WP-Sweep once before and today was my second. I still have one unused plug, Waving Portfolio, remaining. I recall having issues with the plugin but am still in the hunt for how to do up my portfolio which leads me to the outstanding items on my website:
Update to latest version of Quark Theme… will happen soon now that I have backed up and cleaned up a fair bit, including backing up the Quark Theme folder specifically encase I loose my customizations (I should probably read up and potentially do a proper Child Theme)
Complete my homepage, still not sure what I want to do for the body
Investigate Portfolio option (quark gallery format and some manual maintenance on a portfolio page?)
This is always on going and though it may cause a little stress at times when things break as a whole I love it and enjoy the challenge which is why I need to try and get cracking on some personal project ideas of my own.
Today was a great building session and two Johns along with one other club member who stopped by for a visit today. Peter’s place was a beehive of activity! Through it all I chatted some, they conversed lots, and I kept working away to put in another 2 hrs on my plane. Today was about starting the process of covering the fuselage.
The first thing I did was measure the length of the bottom of the fuselage with about an extra inch at the front and about the same for the back which will cover over top of the existing piece. You want the front piece covering the back, which is why I started at the back and am working my way to the front of the aircraft. This allows the wind to roll over the aircraft without hooking and getting underneath the covering to peel it back.
You can see the bottom covered in the top picture. In this case I cut the piece tapered rather than trying to cut this on the aircraft, which I cannot imagine would have been easy or very ascetically pleasing. I wanted about a half inch to wrap around the sides. In ordered to get this tapered cut I did the following:
Measured the width of the bottom at its widest point plus some (9″ total)
Measured the length of the bottom plus an inch to overlay at the narrowest and excess at the top (24″ total)
Cut out a piece that was 9″ x 24″
Measured the width at the narrowest part (where it will be overlapping previous covering at the tail)
Marked the center of the covering that I cut out
Marked each side of center the width of the smaller part plus wrap around
Tuesday was another 2hr building session, which is about my typical. When you look at what I got done to the uninitiated you may think to yourself “It took you that long to do what?”. In order to install the rudder and elevator push rods correctly it takes time.
The first step is to figure out where the control horns need to be attached to the control surface (rudder & elevator). This is done by using a combination of the plans, to get a general idea where the horn needs to go as it’ll show where the support for it resides, and attaching the push rod to the servo to see where it lines up. The second allows you to determine the angle at which the control horn needs to be fastened to line up with the end of the push rod. As seen in the picture at the top I already have a hook in the push rod, which is attached to the servo arm.
Ensure that when you are installing the control horn and push rod the servo and control surface is in the neutral position.
Once this is determined you drill two holes through the control surface to act as the guides for the screws using a hand push drill, not electric, with a tiny bit. In my case it is two holes kitty corner to each other on the base of the control horn for fastening. When drilling you need to ensure you are going perpendicular to the surface and straight through, not at an angle, so take your time as it will pay off! I made this mistake and didn’t get it right so when placing the screws the opening on the back wasn’t lining up with the holes in the back plate causing issues. Thank-you John for the help correcting this and getting me on the straight and narrow for the elevator!
On Saturday I got to work on my plane again and made some more progress on covering and installation of the fuel tank. One of the discussion Peter & I had in a previous session was what I’d like to do with the cockpit, use covering or paint it. I decided to go with painting it as I felt under the heat of summer with no airflow under the canopy that covering would wrinkle and be a waste, so Peter stained the cockpit green, seen at the top.
I continued where I left off last session by completing the covering of the fin in white. I was able to utilize the knowledge I learned from John in my last session about covering. I was impressed with the result. I didn’t quite get it right the first time so had to switch around the covering and start again (as the glue along the one edge was no longer good after pulling up the heated covering). Throughout the process I had to make some incisions at the top and bottom to allow the covering to come around properly, which includes removing excess when I could.
Tuesday was an excellent covering session and nice to get in back to back days working on my plane. Covering is definitely a time consuming task and the tail with all its intricacies took a lot of concentration and patience. Throughout the process I learned how to do things better, namely so that I do not get the wrinkles when rounding corners causing a jagged/rough looking edge with wrinkles in the fabric.
I started with covering the bottom of the stabilizer in orange and the top yellow to match the colour scheme of the wing (picture below and above, respectively). Measuring the surface at its widest point and longest point to cut a piece at those dimensions plus three inches to have play and room to grab. For each piece the process I went through was (see bottom of article for better approach):
Woodpecker the surface
Line the piece up at the fuselage
Tack it down starting at the centre and working my way out
Start up by the fuselage and apply heat from trailing edge to leading edge (width of iron)
Repeat moving down the stabilizer
Ensure all edges are fully ironed down
Cut excess from trailing edge and tip
Fold leading edge (as have excess) around the entire edge, pull tight & iron it down
This is where the wrinkles really come in!
Trim excess from trailing edge
Doesn’t necessarily look pretty as the wrinkles cause the blade to catch preventing a clean line and instead you get a jagged rough line
Being Family Day in Ontario I got over for an afternoon building session with Peter. I started off where I left off, the rudder. I used the heat gun to shrink the covering over the ‘holes’ in the rudder and then using the markings on the fin figured out where the hinge marks were hiding under the covering that was over the leading edge. I then used the back tip of an x-acto knife to open up the hinge slots, hard to see below 🙂
After that was finished up brought the fuselage up onto the workbench as I’m now on to covering the fuselage! As you’ll notice from the pictures I am doing the fuselage and fin white. Because you want your seems to be such that the covering is overlapping from front to back, prevents the air from getting under and peeling back the covering, we start at the table and work our way towards the nose of the aircraft.
It was great to get back working on my aircraft after a 16 day hiatus due to being away for birthday weekends amongst other things. Though I wasn’t able to make it Peter did tinker a bit as he got the engine mounted, fuel tank set up and the throttle connections hooked up. I forgot to take some pictures of that.
After checking things out and refreshing myself with the project I got to work with measuring out where a hole needed to be placed in the fuselage doubler that lines up with the high speed adjustment on the engine. Once I determined where the hole needed to be I drilled a small hole first to ensure I wasn’t to far off and then used a bigger drill bit to open up the hole more. Testing with the same type of wire that will eventually be attached in place the hole alignment sufficed for now. This will allow us to find the hole after covering the fuselage and not have to mark up the fresh covering we put on to measure it out. At some point once the wire is attached we’ll run the engine to make sure the hole is positioned well enough such that the wire can move freely within the hole with the engine vibrations.
John stopped by for a visit to watch me work, lol. He seems to quite enjoy this; however, I do to as tend to pick up some tidbits along the way 🙂 . We need to remember to create another hole for a wire to adjust the low speed.
The other task for the evening, which took the majority of the approximately 2 hrs I was there is covering the rudder, seen in the featured image above. This started with covering the top and bottom edges followed by the trailing edge. These pieces took quite a bit of time to get done, especially along the bottom where the tail wheel wire and mount (rubber piece) are. To cover the remainder I used one solid piece that I sealed to the leading edge and then folded over to cover both sides of the rudder and ironed down all of the surfaces and will need to go back and finish up with the blow drier to tighten up the covering over the exposed holes in the rudder.
I probably could have just summed that up to be that covering the rudder in general due to its intricacies was awkward and required a fair bit of concentration and patience 🙂
I was introduced to the board & card game combo Dirty Marbles years ago by friends of the family. Being a lover of board and card games I fell in love with the game almost instantly. The game is played using a board similar to the one displayed at the end of this post and a regular deck of 52 playing cards. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to play in years, though I still talk about the game, due to not having a board. Thus, I thought it would be an interesting project to develop the game myself with the networking/multiplayer component. Since this thought first occurred to me back in 2014 I now have different ideas for implementation, like perhaps as an iOS app, Android app and/or desktop application for greater flexibility in play, but also added complexity (mainly because I’m still learning iOS and thus only have a faint idea as to what I would need to do for notifications).
My initial thoughts on a starting point were as follows:
Console app first
Multiplayer, on a single machine
‘-‘ for empty slots
First letter of colour for player marbles, followed by num so can choose the one to play???
P to print board
H to print hand contents of human players
M to move, ask for card and marble num, move if valid and print board or error message otherwise
Of course that is but the tip of the iceberg and some key features I want to implement include:
Graphical User Interface
Multiplayer, network play
Difficulty levels (Artificial Intelligence)
Now I am thinking of still getting the logic down first but doing an implementation for iOS and/or a Windows C# application first. When I will actually get to start this I do not know as I currently have other projects preceding this one. I don’t expect that I will implement every idea but I wanted to put this one out there, finally as it’s been in draft since 2014, for if I’m ever lacking in projects or have an over abundance of free time. 🙂
If you are curious to check out my most active project right now, which isn’t in the development realm but hands on building, is building a Sig 4 Star 60 which you can check out.
Last Tuesday I got to work on my plane again and been so busy since I’m only now getting around to blogging about it.
The first thing we did was install the wire for the tail wheel. This involved first bending the tip of the wire into a 90 degree angle and ‘sanding’ the wire to rough it up a bit which allows the glue to stick better to hold the wire into place. Then needed to drill a hole into the button of the rudder for where the end of the wire (the part bent up at an angle) will slide into. This provides a sturdier fit into the rudder, since this wire steers the tail through the wheel/rudder connection.
The remaining part of the wire that goes along the bottom of the rudder needs to be recessed into the rudder itself so that it is flush. In order to accomplish this I first lined up the wire and traced two guide lines along the bottom. Using the guide lines I drilled tiny wholes along its length to carve out a groove. I then alternated between using a drill bit to run along its length a tiny file to sand out the inside. I alternated and repeated until upon one of my checks the wire sat down into the rudder to my satisfaction. Note that we used the plans to figure out how far back the wire needed to go and also need to ensure that not to much sticks out at the leading edge that would interfere with rudder movement.
Once that was done and glued into place we then cut a piece out of a fiberglass sheet such that it would wrap around about 2 inches on each side. I then brushed glue over the fiber glass, ensuring to role any air pockets out of the fiberglass over the wire and down the sides. Once this was done it was left to dry.
The fiberglass provides additional support / reinforcement to the tail wheel assembly.
Next I went back to working on the wing and installed the invasion stripes on the bottom of each wing panel, seen in the feature picture at the top. Placing covering over top of covering can lead to an excessive amount of air bubbles forming as air gets trapped between the two layers. In order to help mitigate this issue I used the Top Flite Woodpecker Perforating Tool: